20% Off ON1 Software with my Coupon Code- Click Above in the Menu
!5% Off Photomatix Click thru and use Coupon Code theHDRimage
Macphun Software – Use Coupon Code theHDRimge for 10% off
Aurora HDR from Macphun
Topaz Labs Software
Purchase My Prints
- Topaz Labs Updates Adjust and a special coupon code for 20% off
- Maybe we need to RETHINK how we think about Depth of Field
- ON1 Photo RAW 2018 NOW Available
- Macphun Software to become Skylum in 2018
- Why not give ON1 Photo Raw a spin for free
- ON1 Releases big update to Photo RAW 2017
- Exciting new Photo Editor from Topaz Labs and it’s Free!
- HDRsoft announces Photomatix 6
- Update to story of Photoshop v Nik Plug-ins
- Breaking the Rules -Why you are not the Rebel you think you are
- ON1 Photo RAW 2017 Review – Part 1 – Why do I want this over LR-PS
- ON1 Photo RAW is HERE!
- Topaz Labs Updates Adjust and Simplify Programs
- Luminar – New Photo Editor from Macphun – Release and Review
- Aurora HDR Pro 2017 Performance Review
- New from Topaz Labs Texture Effects 2 with Discount Code
- Why Dynamic Range is NOT Tonal Range
- New From Topaz Labs Impressions 2
- By Starlight in ON1 Photo 10
- How Viewpoint changes an Image
- Why we use different lenses and why we move
- ON1 Photo 10 and Lightroom HDR
- ON1 to Release Photo RAW this Fall!
- ON1 20% Off Coupon Code
- Why On1 is SOOO much better than Free Software
- Topaz Labs introduces DeNoise 6 and Sale
- New From Topaz Labs – Texture Effects -Coupon Code
- ON1 PHOTO 10 Now Available !
- ON 1 PHOTO 10 Review
- Pre-Order ON 1Photo 10 today
PopularAperture BLack & White Black & White Conversions Composition Composition in Photography Depth of Field Editing Software Exposure HDR HDR Editing HDR Examples HDR Exposure HDRI HDR Images HDRsoft HDR Software HDR Software Review High Dynamic Range Images How far apart to space exposures How many exposures to shoot Layer Masks Lenses Lightroom Macphun Metering Nik HDR Efex Pro Nik HDR Efex Pro 2 ON1 On1 Coupon Code ON1 PHOTO 10 onOne onOne coupon code Perspective Photomatix Photomatix Pro 4.0 Photomatix Pro 4.1 Photoshop Single Image HDR Software Software review Software sale The HDR Image Topaz Adjust 5 Topaz Labs When to boost your ISO in HDR
- February 2018 (1)
- December 2017 (1)
- November 2017 (1)
- October 2017 (1)
- July 2017 (1)
- June 2017 (2)
- May 2017 (3)
- February 2017 (1)
- December 2016 (1)
- November 2016 (2)
- October 2016 (1)
- September 2016 (1)
- August 2016 (1)
- June 2016 (1)
- May 2016 (3)
- April 2016 (4)
- February 2016 (1)
- November 2015 (1)
- October 2015 (4)
- September 2015 (3)
- April 2015 (1)
- August 2014 (2)
- July 2014 (1)
- June 2014 (2)
- May 2014 (1)
- January 2014 (1)
- November 2013 (2)
- August 2013 (4)
- May 2013 (1)
- April 2013 (2)
- February 2013 (4)
- January 2013 (8)
- December 2012 (8)
- November 2012 (4)
- October 2012 (2)
- September 2012 (8)
- August 2012 (8)
- July 2012 (6)
- June 2012 (1)
- April 2012 (4)
- March 2012 (1)
- February 2012 (18)
- January 2012 (13)
- December 2011 (11)
- November 2011 (22)
- October 2011 (23)
- September 2011 (12)
- August 2011 (1)
- July 2011 (3)
- June 2011 (3)
- November 2010 (1)
- October 2010 (7)
- September 2010 (3)
Daily Archives: February 21, 2012
Something I have brought up in the past about over-shooting a scene – taking too many exposures – popped up last week in one of my images. I was shooting the ocean sunset and shot 6 exposures using AEB + EC (Auto Exposure Bracketing – Exposure Compensation) It’s a quick way to get 6 (usually 5 because one can be a duplicate) exposures of a scene without having to do much figuring.
When I got home I threw the 6 images into Photomatix Pro 4.1 and selected my usual alignment “Match Features”. I use this because often I have some complex objects in the foreground and I need them aligned as perfectly as possible.
I merged the image and what I got was this “widescreen” image. and you can see a misaligned handrail on the right side.
What? I didn’t shoot widescreen! Going back and looking at the images I could see what the problem was as we can see here looking at the six exposures
The first two exposures are so under-exposed they have very little detail left in them for the software to find edges to align. (You can also have this probelm on an too over-exposed image that is totally blown out)
So the simple answer could have been to just eliminate those two exposures from the merge, they may not have had enough information – as is the case when people over-shoot a scene- to even be worthwhile putting in the mix.
So I did that and still using “Match Features” for the alignment mode, Photomatix perfectly aligned the image and did not crop off any part of the image
OK, great. But the truth is, the image did not have the color range I wanted especially in the dusk sky. So I went back and merged all 6 images again, this time choosing “Match Horizontal and Vertical shifts”. Because there was, even in the lowest two exposures a clear line for the horizon, this would be a good choice.
Using this method, I got a perfect alignment AND the full range of color and luminosity (and DR) that I wanted for the image.
Just another example that shows us that using the same setting all the time, even if we really like that setting, isn’t always the right choice. And that experimentation may be the best thing to do to achieve your final goal.
One final thing to note was that the image WITHOUT the two darkest exposures was actually darker than the one with all 6 images. (Both used the same tone mapping) this is because the software needed to bring some information down into the shadow area and it brought some of the midtones with it.
Hope that helps
Todays’ Reader HDR Image comes from our buddy Joseph Bowman up in Oregon
Here’s what Joe had to say about his image
Haystack Rock – Cannon Beach, Oregon
6mp Canon EOS Digital Rebel (300D)
Lens: 18-55mm kit lens
– Hey, who says you need thousands of dollars worth of equipment to make an image you love!
Manual, f/22, iso 100, @ 18mm
6 shot HDR @ ss 1/5, 1/10, 1/20, 1/60, .4, & 1 second
HDR Processing & Post Processing
Photoshop Elements 7
Here’s the image: (Click to enlarge)
About the Image:
This shot was taken a little before sunset, at around 5:20 p.m. (my exif data is off as I haven’t reset the camera time). I put my camera on a tripod, set it as close to the ground as it would go, and I placed it at the edge of the small rock and tide pool in order to add some foreground interest. I set my camera to manual, figured out what my base exposure was, then adjusted for my six shots. I wasn’t sure if I needed all six or just three but figured it was better to have them and not need them. Plus, even with the camera set to iso 100, I was concerned about the potential noise that would pop up if Photomatix had to try to pull too much information out of the image. My Digital Rebel is HORRIBLE for noise!
The image was processed in Photomatix Pro and “cooked to taste.” After Photomatix, I took the image into Photoshop Elements where I cloned out some of the lens flare at camera right and I cloned out the people, which was the most intensive part of the whole process – but overall not too bad thanks to the texture of the rock being so forgiving. I also burned some of the clouds to give the sky more drama, and I adjusted the vibrance and saturation levels to add pop to the sky and rock. The one thing I wish for this image is that I could have gotten a little wider than the 18mm in order to get more of the sun into the image.
Beautiful job Joe. Ahhh Cannon beach , when I lived for a short time in Portland, Cannon Beach was my favorite place to go on the weekends. Never got many good shots since it rained everytime I went. ( rainy Season) but I love the town and certainly love Haystack Rock.
Great job on the image. I love how you included some foreground interest, many would have just had the bare sand in front.
I know what you mean about the lens, 10-20mm lenses on a cropped Canon are the bomb for shots like this. The one suggestion I would make as far as your choice of aperture, I know you went to f/22 for maximum DOF. However you can get some softnesss in images from diffraction after a certain aperture depending on Sensor size. For a crop sensor like the one on Rebel XT you shouldn’t go past f/11 unless you really have to. With f/11 and a subject distance of 5 feet, which the seaweed appears to be. You would still have a DOF from 2.5′ to infinity even at f/11 AND a sharper image. If you had a subject say 1.5 feet, yeah you may have to push it to f/22 for Max DOF.
Good job getting low! And this was a tough image to edit because of the ocean mist. You really pullled it together
Great job Joe on a beautiuful image from one of my favorite places on earth.