Luminar by Skylum
B & H
Purchase My Fine Art Prints
- ON1 Rolls out Photo Raw 2019 with many Big Improvements
- Depth of Field Revisited – Again
- 8 HDR Software Program Shootout
- Topaz Labs Updates Adjust
- Maybe we need to RETHINK how we think about Depth of Field
- ON1 Photo RAW 2018 NOW Available
- Macphun Software to become Skylum in 2018
- Why not give ON1 Photo Raw a spin for free
- Exciting new Photo Editor from Topaz Labs and it’s Free!
- HDRsoft announces Photomatix 6
- Breaking the Rules -Why you are not the Rebel you think you are
- ON1 Photo RAW 2017 Review – Part 1 – Why do I want this over LR-PS
- ON1 Photo RAW is HERE!
- Topaz Labs Updates Adjust and Simplify Programs
- Luminar – New Photo Editor from Macphun – Release and Review
- Aurora HDR Pro 2017 Performance Review
- Why Dynamic Range is NOT Tonal Range
- New From Topaz Labs Impressions 2
- By Starlight in ON1 Photo 10
- How Viewpoint changes an Image
- Why we use different lenses and why we move
- ON1 Photo 10 and Lightroom HDR
- ON1 20% Off Coupon Code
- Why On1 is SOOO much better than Free Software
- Photomatix Pro 5.1 is Still King
- Noiseless Pro from Macphun now available
- Are your Lightroom Plug-ins Keeping your Color Space?
- Macphun Tonality Pro Black & White Review
- HDRsoft’s Merge to 32 Bit. A simple and effective Lightroom HDR workflow
- Lightroom mistakenly Double Processing Photoshop HDRs
PopularAperture BLack & White Black & White Conversions Black & White HDR Composition Composition in Photography Depth of Field DOF Exposure Focus HDR HDR Exposure HDRI HDR Images HDRsoft HDR Software HDR Software Review High Dynamic Range Images How far apart to space exposures How many exposures to shoot Layer Masks Lenses Lightroom Macphun Metering New Software Nik Silver Efex pro OCF Off Camera Flash ON1 On1 Coupon Code onOne onOne coupon code onOne software Perspective Photomatix Photomatix Pro 4.0 Photoshop sharpening Shooting Architechural Interiors with HDR Single Image HDR Software review The HDR Image Topaz Adjust 5 Topaz Labs
- November 2018 (1)
- September 2018 (1)
- August 2018 (1)
- February 2018 (1)
- December 2017 (1)
- November 2017 (1)
- October 2017 (1)
- July 2017 (1)
- June 2017 (1)
- May 2017 (2)
- February 2017 (1)
- December 2016 (1)
- November 2016 (2)
- October 2016 (1)
- August 2016 (1)
- June 2016 (1)
- May 2016 (3)
- April 2016 (3)
- September 2015 (1)
- April 2015 (1)
- August 2014 (2)
- July 2014 (1)
- June 2014 (2)
- May 2014 (1)
- November 2013 (2)
- August 2013 (4)
- May 2013 (1)
- April 2013 (2)
- February 2013 (3)
- January 2013 (6)
- December 2012 (7)
- November 2012 (3)
- September 2012 (8)
- August 2012 (6)
- July 2012 (4)
- June 2012 (1)
- April 2012 (4)
- March 2012 (1)
- February 2012 (8)
- January 2012 (9)
- December 2011 (7)
- November 2011 (17)
- October 2011 (11)
- September 2011 (7)
- July 2011 (3)
- June 2011 (3)
- November 2010 (1)
- October 2010 (5)
- September 2010 (3)
Monthly Archives: December 2012
So often these days as I scan Google+ or 500px I see HDRs that I’m sorry, are just horrible photographs. The only thing of interest at all in them is that they are an HDR and sometimes I’ll admit, that alone draws the eye. But HDR should not be the feature, it should be a great photograph…and I used this technique to capture it. Anymore I don’t even say “I shot an HDR”, I simply, took a photograph
So I implore you to, First look for a great photograph, interesting light and shadow, texture and composition and then judge, what techniques do I need to use to capture my vision? If the scene is beyond the dynamics of your camera, THEN use HDR (or other methods) to capture it.
Thought for the day, short and sweet.
There are many ways to process and HDR, many different styles. Certainly not everyone likes the same look and there are clearly some Battle Lines drawn with different sides vehemently defending the “Look” that they prefer. Is there a right style? Of course not, it’s photography, it’s art, everyone works and see differently.
But I thought I would show a few of the different styles out there. And recognize that these are not clearly set in stone and even my interpretation of a certain style may not be what you think it is. And also there are laterally thousands of interpretations in between.
I’ll start this rant off with my usual disclaimer: Artistic Intent, I don’t care what you do to your image provided it was Artistic Intent. Backwards, inside out and purple…fine if that’s was your intent. It’s when you did it because you didn’t know any better, that’s when I have a problem and I’m here to help.
My two biggest pet peeves in HDR images are; Halos and Gray Clouds that should be white. The funny thing is, most likely the same thing is responsible for both.
I read with interest a post on Google+ the other day. A gentleman stated. “I’ve started to do more of my work in Lightroom”. Another poster asked, “You mean Tone-Mapping?” The first person replied, “No, I’m extending the Dynamic Range of a single image in Lightroom using the controls”
So it made me think; Does anyone really understand what it is we do as HDR practitioners? I think not.
Let’s make one thing clear up front: We are not creating High Dynamic Range images…wait let me say that again…WE ARE NOT CREATING HIGH DYNAMIC RANGE IMAGES. And in case you missed it, we… are…not…creating…high dynamic range… images. We simply aren’t.
For those of you that have read my articles on shooting the natural looking HDR Landscape, forget everything you read…well almost everything… when it comes to Night Cityscapes. They are a totally different animal in shooting and processing.
Setting up to shoot
Before we get to exposures and processing, first lets look at how we should shoot a night cityscape regardless of if we are shooting HDR or not.
Thanks to Black & White artist and authority Cort Anderson for the inspiration for this article
Now I guess that is understandable because people do like the color pop that HDR can provide and it has become a staple of “That HDR Look”. But HDRs can make an outstanding Black & White image. Of the 1,000 HDR images in my portfolio 1/3 of them are a B & W conversion.
What I do is quite simple. I set my camera to Aperture Priority mode and the aperture and ISO I will be shooting with. I then set my metering mode to spot. I use aperture priority for this instead of Manual because I am just looking for numbers (shutter speeds) right now. I may, and probably will, end up shooting in a different mode, most likely manual.
I then seek out the brightest and darkest areas of my scene. If the sun is in the shot, don’t measure it for many reasons. First off it’s not good for your eyes or your camera and secondly because of its brightness you will end up with exposures that in reality have very little use. If the sun is just at the horizon line you may be OK, but anything above that you are asking for trouble. But in most circumstances if the sun is in my image I will meter slightly to the side or above it.
Also make note of one phenomenon, just as the sun hit the horizon it is not always the brightest region of the image and the clear sky above or a reflection off a cloud may actually register higher Continue reading »